Journey Through the Grapes: Lesser-Known Varietals from Around the World

One of the reasons we love wine so much is the amazing diversity and opportunity to explore endless types of wine.

One of the aspects of that is the range of grape varieties grown across the world. It is estimated that there are over 10,000 grape varieties for wine-making in some way, shape or form. Although the majority are in such small quantities that they are rarely registered outside their specific vineyard or producer.

The Common Grape Varieties with Uncommon Flavours

The common grape varieties, often known as international grape varieties, form the backbone of the global wine industry. They offer distinct flavours and characteristics that cater to diverse palates. Interestingly, they can express the terroir of different regions in which they grow, allowing winemakers to produce their styles of wines with the same varietal in different parts of the world.

Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon, is known for its bold tannins and dark fruit flavours. In Bordeaux, you’ll often find notes of cassis, prune, and cigar in the wines, while wines from Coonawarra in Australia typically feature prominent menthol and herbal notes.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is cherished for its elegance and complexity. It ranges from soft earthy styles in Burgundy to fuller, fruitier wines in Oregon and even more robust styles from Central Otago in New Zealand.

Syrah/Shiraz

Syrah/Shiraz offers spicy and robust flavours, which are prominent in the Rhône Valley and Australia. The two names reflect the different styles it offers, from the meaty and earthy Syrah from the Southern Rhône to the bold, juicy, plummy, and spicy Shiraz from the Barossa Valley in Australia.

Chardonnay

For white grapes, Chardonnay is a key variety for the global wine industry. The wines can range from crisp and citrusy in cooler climates, such as Chablis, to rich buttery in warmer regions, such as California.

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is easily recognisable with its signature gooseberry note, zesty acidity, and tropical aromas. The same grape from the Loire Valley produces the famed Sancerre wine, which is crisp, framed with racy acidity, and has distinctive green grassy notes. These characteristics are on the other end of the spectrum compared to the New World version.

Lesser-Known Grape Varieties

Despite the international grape varieties can offer a wide range of styles, the huge plethora of lesser-known grape varieties offer a captivating exploration into the unique flavours and structures, that you may hardly find in other wines.

Assyrtiko

Varieties like Greece’s Assyrtiko, with its bright acidity and mineral notes, evoke the likes of the volcanic soils, history and culture of the island of Santorini.

Blaufränkisch

Austria’s Blaufränkisch is known for its spicy, dark berry flavours, and pairs beautifully with the food culture grown in this area of Europe through centuries of rivalling empires.

Arneis

But it’s not just a historical context. Some varieties have unique and expressive flavours that never quite seem to travel outside of their original lands. Italy’s Arneis offers floral and pear nuances from the rolling hills of Piemonte.

Touriga Nacional

Portugal’s Touriga Nacional is known for its rich, tannic structure from the sunbaked slopes up and down the country.

Furmint

Hungary’s Furmint is famed for its vital role in Tokaji wines and helps to highlight the region’s historic winemaking traditions.

Why Are Some Grapes More Popular Than Others?

1. Historical Significance

Some grape varietals have a long-standing history and cultural importance in specific regions. For example, Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Pinot Noir in Burgundy are seen as originating varietals from that region, they have been cultivated and revered for centuries, establishing their reputation and desirability.

2. Economic Viability

Certain grape varietals can yield higher profits due to their market demand. Varietals like Chardonnay and Merlot are widely recognised and enjoyed globally, making them economically advantageous for winemakers to cultivate and sell.

3. Viticultural Characteristics

The adaptability and resilience of a grape varietal to different climates and soil types can make it more popular. Varietals like Sauvignon Blanc are known for their ability to thrive in diverse conditions, ensuring consistent and reliable production. Climate change also plays an impactful role, we can see a significant increase in vineyard areas in cooler climate regions in the 2000s.

4. Consumer Preferences

Changing consumer tastes and trends can influence the popularity of certain varieties. For instance, the rise of interest in Gamay from Beaujolais and Timorasso from Piedmont has increased its demand.

5. Winemaking Versatility

Some grape varietals offer greater versatility in winemaking, allowing for a range of styles and expressions. For example, Riesling can be made into dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and sparkling wines, making it a popular choice for winemakers seeking to diversify their product offerings.

Further reading on how the trend of grape growing has changed over time.
“The world’s favourite grapes” by Jancis Robinson

Oftentimes, we tend to overlook these lesser-known or regional grape varieties under the shadow of popular varietals. In the following section, we have selected five lesser-known, some almost forgotten, grape varietals that produce intriguing wines beyond the mainstream.

5 Fascinating Lesser-Known Varietals to Try

Bastardo

Bastardo, also known as Trousseau, is a red grape variety primarily grown in Portugal and France. It produces deeply coloured wines with high tannins and rich flavours of dark berries and earthy notes. Often used in Douro reds, fortified Ports and red wines from Jura. Bastardo is valued for its robust character and ageing potential.

Try Vintage Niepoort Bastardo 2018 – A  fresh and light-bodied wine that has a lingering and precise finish, great as a summer light red!

Counoise

Counoise is a red grape variety predominantly from the Rhône Valley and often used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape blends. It contributes bright acidity, soft tannins, and vibrant flavours of red berries, pepper, and floral notes. Known for enhancing balance and complexity in blends, Counoise adds freshness and aromatic depth to wines.

Try Railsback Freres Counoise – One for those who enjoys light fruity red. You will find similarities to the profile of top-quality Northern Spanish Grenache or light Cru Beaujolais from this wine.

Kekfrankos

Kékfrankos is a localised name for Blaufränkisch in Hungary, a red grape variety prominent in Hungary and Austria. It produces medium-bodied wines with vibrant acidity, fine tannins, and flavours of dark berries, spices, and a hint of pepper. Kékfrankos is celebrated for its versatility and ability to express terroir distinctly.

Try Heumann Kekfrankos – There is not many Kékfrankos you can find out there, not to mention a 2016 vintage!

Mission

The Mission grape, also known as País, is a historic variety brought to the Americas by Spanish missionaries. Predominantly found in California, Chile, and Mexico, it produces light, fruity wines with berry and spice notes. This resilient grape is integral to the New World’s viticultural heritage.

Try Sabelli-Frisch Mission – Think of it as light a spicy Pinot with a touch more body and tannin. An authentic look into the historical varietal that made California what it is today.

Nascetta

Nascetta is a rare white grape variety from the Piedmont region in Italy. This almost-forgotten varietal is now only grown by seven producers in the region. Known for its aromatic complexity and refreshing acidity, it offers flavours of citrus, white flowers, honey and a mineral finish. Revived in recent years, Nascetta wines showcase elegance and a unique expression of their terroir in the rolling hills around the red wine power hubs of Barolo and Barbaresco.

Try Le Strette Nascetta – Made by one of the seven producers in Piedmont that revive this almost-forgotten varietal.

This Blog post is written by Mike Turner
Freelance wine writer, presenter and judge

Mike is a regular contributor for The Buyer magazine and is a certified educator and ambassador for Bordeaux, Rioja, Ribera Del Duero, Barolo and Barbaresco, running trade and consumer events across the UK from his base in the East Midlands.

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