The King of the Queen of grape varieties
Man, landscape and grape reach a perfect harmony in Egon Müller, both as an individual and winemaker. His wines, made with fruit from some of the Mosel’s most prized plots, are unanimously placed among the world’s best expressions of Riesling
Location: Saar, Mosel, Germany
Total area under vine: 28 ha
Viticultural standards: Organic (practicing)
Interesting fact: Egon Müller is a member of, and single German representative at, Primum Familiae Vini (The First Families of Wine), a small group of elite, family-owned producers.
Egon Müller makes wines exclusively from estate-grown fruit hailing from some of the Mosel’s best vineyards, including 8.3 hectares in the iconic Scharzhofberg, of which three are ungrafted vines planted in the 19th century. The Scharzhofberg, or Scharzhof Mountain, is among the finest Riesling sites in Germany (if not the world) and is considered of Grand Cru status. Other sites of note are Braunfels and Kupp in Wiltingen, part of Weingut “Le Gallais” which the Müller family purchased in 1954.
These vines deliver some of the best Riesling fruit and ultimately some of the world’s finest wines – complex, elegant, expressive, and equally enjoyable young or after years in the cellar. There is a delicate freshness in Müller’s wines that develops into a robust, focused maturity, underpinned by intense minerality. Egon’s unassuming and self-effacing poise can help understand the focussed character of his wines, made to convey the privilege of working with fruit from such unique plots rather than affirming a style.
Egon Müller’s Rieslings question even the most traditional definitions of structure and style. Sweetness, even for the higher sugar content wines, is balanced by good minerality and the rather salty acidity which the Saar region is known for. An alchemic transformation happens to Müller’s wines as they age: they become drier, more mineral-soaked, complex, honeyed rather than sugary, floral rather than fruity. Egon himself says that with age it becomes impossible to categorise the wines as dry or sweet. Simply, and purely, expressions of Riesling from their time and place.
.The Egon Müller estate has been in the hands of the Müller family since 1797. Its current, charismatic, leader is Egon Müller the Fourth. The Fifth, Egon’s eponymous young soon, is already honing his craft to become the successor of this unique heritage.