Gravner

One could argue that Gravner wines are just a by-product of an all-encompassing philosophy of life. Joško Gravner’s approach to viticulture and winemaking in the Collio DOC is the one that follows his overall understanding of how Man should relate to nature: in harmony with its pace, cycles and transformations and resisting an urge to continuously intervene. This philosophy extends to every aspect of his winemaking process, from the careful tending of vines to the patient aging of wines in traditional Georgian qvevri buried underground.

It is this holistically low-interventionist approach that Josko uses in his work, from the vineyard to the cellar, and is translated into the wines he makes. He single-handedly transformed the world’s understanding of Friuli and of orange wine, with his gentle character and his commitment to a calm acceptance of what nature has to offer. His methods have inspired a new generation of winemakers who seek to produce wines that truly reflect their terroir and vintage, without the mask of excessive intervention.

This means that, with a relentless commitment to biodynamic viticulture principles, he is even ready to accept big losses in yield if a harvest is affected by natural conditions. This unwavering dedication to natural processes, even in the face of potential financial losses, sets him apart in an industry often driven by commercial pressures.

Calm is, according to Joško, all one needs to face adversity; wait, and ultimately be rewarded with the right fruit and wine at the right time. These principles have allowed Gravner, on the other hand, to then use the best, most expressive indigenous grapes, grown naturally and ripened slowly. His patience and trust in nature’s rhythm have resulted in wines that are not just beverages, but living expressions of their place of origin, carrying within them the story of each vintage, the character of the soil, and the wisdom of ancient winemaking traditions. This approach has not only earned him international acclaim but has also helped preserve and revitalize traditional winemaking methods that might otherwise have been lost to modernization.

This raw material becomes the foundation for his masterful vinification process, where local traditional techniques are not merely preserved but elevated to unprecedented levels of purity, expressiveness, and aging potential. Through years of dedication and refinement, Gravner has established himself as the undisputed benchmark for skin-fermented and amphora wines, becoming a guiding light for winemakers worldwide. His pioneering use of Georgian qvevri and extended maceration periods has revolutionized oxidative winemaking, setting standards that others strive to achieve. Yet, despite numerous attempts by others to replicate his methods, the unique character of Gravner wines remains inimitable – not due to technical limitations, but because these wines are intrinsically woven into the fabric of his philosophical approach to life and winemaking.

Gravner vineyards, nestled around the family’s ancestral home known as Hum in the picturesque village of Oslavia, tell a story of growth, resilience, and deep-rooted connection to the land.

The family’s journey began in 1901 with the purchase of the house and an initial 2-hectare vineyard. Following the devastating 1976 earthquake that necessitated the complete reconstruction of their home, the estate has flourished to encompass 32 hectares, with 15 hectares dedicated to meticulously tended vines that gracefully follow the undulating contours of the Colio hills. The vineyard landscape is thoughtfully designed with strategic plantings of olive trees, majestic cypresses, wild apple trees, rowan trees, and manna ashes. These carefully selected companion plants serve multiple crucial functions: they act as natural guardians against soil erosion, maintain optimal water balance in the ecosystem, and foster a rich biodiversity. These elements are fundamental to the success of their organic viticulture practices, creating a harmonious and self-sustaining agricultural system.

The cellar, a testament to traditional winemaking methods, houses an impressive collection of seasoned Slavonian oak casks alongside the distinctive amphorae. Within these vessels, the wines undergo extended periods of fermentation, maceration, and aging, guided by the principles of patience and minimal intervention. This unhurried approach, characterized by silence and respect for time, allows each wine to develop its true character and potential. Joško Gravner’s unwavering dedication to indigenous varieties, particularly Ribolla Gialla, complemented by other local treasures such as Friulano, Pignolo, and Pinot Grigio, has played a pivotal role in elevating these traditional grapes to international acclaim and recognition.

In recent years, following Joško’s formal retirement, the torch has been passed to his daughter Mateja Gravner, whose passion and commitment mirror her father’s dedication to excellence. Under her thoughtful stewardship, the legacy of ancestral techniques and low-intervention winemaking continues to flourish. Mateja maintains the estate’s foundational principles, ensuring that the use of native yeasts, extended skin contact, and prolonged aging in qvevri remain central to Gravner’s winemaking philosophy. Her leadership guarantees the preservation and evolution of their distinctive amber wines from the Venezia Giulia region, carrying forward the family’s commitment to producing wines that authentically express their terroir and heritage.