Extreme winemaking exists in places where you’d least expect to find a vineyard. Would you believe that vineyards in Argentina thrive at altitudes exceeding 3000 metres, or that winemakers in China bury their vines to protect them from winter temperatures is -20°C?
Despite seemingly impossible growing conditions, determined vintners worldwide are producing remarkable wines in the most challenging environments.
From the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily to the parched landscapes of the Atacama Desert, where annual rainfall barely reaches 5mm, vineyards continue to survive and even flourish. In fact, many of these harsh climates produce wines with distinctive characteristics unique to their regions. The volcanic island of Santorini boasts vines that are 60 to 70 years old on average, with some reaching 100 years, while Lanzarote’s vineyards have developed a unique cultivation system over nearly 300 years that allows them to thrive with only 150 to 200mm of rainfall annually. In this article, we’ll explore the harshest climates where vineyards survive and the extraordinary techniques that make it possible.
What makes an extreme vineyard?
Vineyards cross into “extreme” territory when they push the boundaries of what’s traditionally considered suitable for growing grapes. These boundaries are primarily defined by challenging climate conditions, geographical features, and factors that would typically make agriculture impossible.
Temperature
Temperature sits at the core of extreme viticulture. In Ningxia, China, winter temperatures regularly drop below -25°C, forcing winemakers to bury their vines under 30cm of soil for protection. At the opposite end, regions in South America have recorded blistering temperatures of 48.9°C. This remarkable range demonstrates the resilience of grapevines under proper management.
Rainfall
Precipitation extremes also define these challenging environments. The Atacama Desert in Chile is the driest place on Earth. Some weather stations in the area have never recorded rainfall! Consequently, water becomes a precious resource that must be carefully managed, especially as climate change threatens to exacerbate drought conditions.
Altitude
Altitude presents another dimension of extremity. Higher elevations typically mean intense sunlight exposure and dramatic temperature shifts between day and night. These conditions, though challenging, often yield grapes with distinctive flavour characteristics and balanced acidity qualities increasingly valued as global temperatures rise.
The stakes for these extreme vineyards are growing higher. For winemakers battling these extraordinary challenges, the reward comes in producing wines with unique characteristics impossible to replicate elsewhere, given where the fruits are grown in extreme landscapes!
Techniques that help vineyards to survive
Surviving the world’s harshest winemaking environments requires remarkable innovation and specialised techniques that adapt to extreme conditions.
Extreme cold weather management
In regions battling severe cold, winemakers have developed ingenious protection methods. Many vineyards in northern China bury their vines under at least 30cm of soil during winter when temperatures fall below -17°C. This soil burial acts as insulation, keeping temperatures just a few degrees below freezing even when air temperatures drop dramatically.
Similarly, some vineyards employ sprinkler anti-freeze systems that create a protective ice layer on vines, maintaining temperatures above freezing through an “igloo effect”.
Water management
For drought-prone areas, water management becomes essential. Advanced drip irrigation delivers precise amounts of water directly to root zones, reducing evaporation and allowing controlled nutrient delivery through fertigation. Furthermore, some vineyards have adopted biochar mixed with compost during hot decomposition stages, which significantly improves soil water retention.
Vineyard management
Training systems have likewise evolved to address specific challenges. Additionally, on Pantelleria, farmers cultivate albarello pantesco (bush vines) that grow almost horizontally to withstand strong winds, protected by dry lava stone walls that prevent erosion and retain precious moisture.
Organic and biodynamic approaches have proven particularly effective against climate extremes. The absence of excessive humidity in dry regions reduces fungal diseases, eliminating chemical intervention needs. Biodynamic vineyards also report earlier and even ripening as a significant advantage from rising global temperatures. Hence, these sustainable methods aren’t merely environmentally responsible, they’re increasingly becoming survival strategies in viticulture.
Regions that redefine the limits of winemaking
Across the globe, certain wine regions have become famous precisely because of their hostile growing environments. These pioneering areas produce wines with uniquely distinctive characteristics impossible to replicate elsewhere.
Sicily
Volcanic regions stand at the forefront of extreme winemaking. Sicily’s Mount Etna is considered the “poster child” of volcanic wine, growing vines on one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Winemakers here are very proud to distinguish themselves from regions that they consider not “pure enough” in volcanic terroir!
Check out wines from our producer from Mount Etna, Girolamo Russo.
Santorini
The Greek island of Santorini, shaped by a 16th-century eruption, appears initially inhospitable with its black soil, intense heat, and minimal rainfall. Nevertheless, morning and evening sea mists create concentrated flavours in everything grown there.
Argentina
High-altitude vineyards push boundaries ever higher. Argentina’s Mendoza region features vineyards at elevations between 1,000-1,650 metres, where the struggle against altitude creates wines with pronounced acidity. Even more extreme, Patagonia’s Chubut province claims some of the world’s southernmost vineyards beyond the 45th parallel, where cold climate produces wines with vibrant acidity and lower alcohol content.
Chilie
The Atacama Desert, the driest place on Earth, is hidden with wine oases that produce bottles with notable salinity and intense fruit character from the aggressive desert sun.
Most remarkably, rather than merely surviving these harsh conditions, these regions’ wines derive their exceptional characters precisely from their extreme terroirs.
Where adversity becomes art
Extreme winemaking is a remarkable fusion of human ingenuity and nature’s raw power. From volcanic slopes and arid deserts to high-altitude peaks and windswept islands, these harsh environments don’t just test the limits of viticulture but they define the wines themselves.
What seem like obstacles, such as water scarcity, wild temperature swings, and wild landscapes, actually help create wines with unparalleled character. Vines dig deeper roots, grapes develop intense concentration, and winemakers adapt with bold techniques that bring these unique conditions to life in the bottle.
As climate change disrupts traditional wine regions, these extreme vineyards offer more than just intrigue, they may hold the keys to future resilience. The methods honed in these challenging settings could guide the industry through shifting global conditions.
Once seen as novelties, wines from extreme regions are now being prized by collectors and enthusiasts alike. Their appeal lies in their authenticity, where each bottle is unique to its place, perseverance, and the extraordinary synergy between nature and craft.