Roberto Ghio
Organic wine from Gavi by the Piedmontese wine philosopher.
In the high hills of northern Italy and near the Ligurian Sea, Roberto Ghio's project stands as a quietly compelling expression of place, tradition and terroir. The estate spans across 45 hectares of vineyards around Bosio, on the highest altitude of the plot in the Gavi region. The goal of Roberto is simple yet ambitious: to craft wines that articulate the distinctiveness of each vintage and each vineyard rather than chasing trends.
Piedmont, Italy
Organic certified
2025
45 hectares
Interesting fact: Caricalasino is a rare native grape variety from the Piedmont region. This aromatic varietal is lesser-known outside the niche circles of wine specialists or those who specialise in Piedmontese viticulture and endangered vine species.
Roberto uses this grape to produce unique wines, including orange maceration styles, as well as white and sparkling wines. This variety reflects the estate’s commitment to rediscovery and local indigenous varieties.
Background
The story of the estate is traced back to 1881, when the first documented activity of the family in winemaking appeared. Today, it is run by Roberto Ghio (born 1977), alongside his father and extended family, representing the seventh generation of the family’s involvement in the vineyards. Roberto’s own background includes a degree in philosophy. His thesis on Nietzsche and Heidegger is a hint of how much reflection and thought go into these wines.
Project vision
The vision here is to give voice to the land and to conserve the memory of each harvest. Rather than pursuing the broadest possible scale, their objective is small-lot vineyards, parcel-by-parcel vinification and clear expression of unique terroirs. In that regard, adjacent plots may be treated and vinified separately because their morphological and microclimatic differences are so great. They also aim to work in an environmentally conscious way by avoiding herbicides, minimising sulphur dioxide, reusing vineyard wood for heating and using lighter bottles.
Vineyard sites
The estate’s vineyards lie principally in the municipality of Bosio, the highest in the Gavi and Ovada sub-region, and also the strip of land nearest the Ligurian Sea in Piedmont.
Notably, the vineyards encompass parcels such as Pian Lazzarino, Vecchia, Arciprete, Zucche, Zané, Piasi, Pilomberto, Fistonia, each identified by toponymic names. To the south lies Cascina Menta, at 800 metres above sea level, representing one of the highest vineyards in southern Piedmont and the closest to the sea.
The steep slopes mean that many vineyard rows require manual work and careful attention. For example, landslide-repaired zones in Pian Lazzarino were still worked by hoe and elbow grease following a 2014 landslide. Roberto describes themselves as working with nature rather than against it. The management is adapted to the landscapes of terraces, woods and streams rather than trying to force uniformity.
Planted varietals
Among the vines planted across the estate are Cortese (the signature white grape of Gavi), Caricalasino for some white and orange maceration wines, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto (in a local ancient variety called Nibiö) and Pinot Noir. Caricalasino deserves a special mention. As a rare native grape of the region, Ghio works it for unusual wines such as orange maceration styles and for white and sparkling wines. This variety emphasises the estate’s interest in rediscovery and character rather than mass production.
Minimal intervention in the cellar is a guiding principle, including light sulphur, gentle extraction, delicate bottling, respect for the grape and vintage seasons rather than forceful manipulations.
The style of wine emphasises a reflection of place: minerality, freshness, length and clarity of expression rather than heavy oak or extreme extraction. For whites, the Cortese wines aim to showcase crisp acidity, minerality and fine fruit, as for reds, they work with Nebbiolo and Dolcetto grown on steeper slopes and cooler sites to extract elegance and freshness.