The Loire Valley, often referred to as the “Garden of France,” is one of the most picturesque and diverse wine regions in the world, let alone France. Home for centuries to the farms and estates of the French aristocracy, the area spans an impressive 600 miles of the Loire River as it snakes east to west just south of Paris.
Given such a large production area, it is no surprise that it produces a wide array of wines, ranging from crisp, acidic whites to crunchy, concentrated reds and world-renowned sweet and sparkling wines.
In recent years, the region has also become a hotbed for winemaking with an ethos of sustainability. This also includes a vast swathe of producers looking to produce wines that can fully express the terroir and preserve it for future generations.
Why Is The Wine Industry Becoming More Sustainable?
Sustainable winemaking practices aim to reduce the environmental impact of farming, harvesting and producing wines. It draws on various angles, such as ecological practices in the vineyard, waste management, water management, energy usage, and so on.
As the effects of climate change become increasingly apparent, marginal wine regions, like the Loire Valley, are particularly vulnerable to rising temperatures, erratic weather patterns, and changing growing conditions. Plants and farmers alike are being forced to adapt to survive. One measure includes promoting biodiversity and reducing the use of harmful chemicals used in years gone by, to contribute to the long-term health of the vineyards and surrounding ecosystems.
On a commercial level, the consumer demand for environmentally conscious products is clearly increasing. Just a jump over the hill from the thirsty Parisian market, and then on to the world’s wine drinkers, the wines of Loire are well positioned for the green transition of consumer behaviour.
Organics and Biodynamics in the Loire Valley.
Despite the marginal, cool climate, and threat of seasonal rains, many producers in the Loire Valley are transitioning to organic certification. This has been driven by a handful of committed producers determined to preserve the unique potential across the Loire River.
There has also been a rise in producers seeking biodynamic certification. This is an ethos of viticulture that takes organic farming a step further by incorporating holistic practices, viewing the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem, where all elements—soil, plants, animals, and humans—are interconnected. The Loire Valley is home to one of the most famous biodynamic pioneers in France, Nicolas Joly at Château de la Roche-aux-Moines. They have been joined on this holistic, gruelling, but hugely satisfying journey by many other estates, including Domaine Bretaudeau in the Pays Nantais.
These producers believe that biodynamic farming not only improves the vitality of the vines but also enhances the purity and complexity of the wines. Biodynamic wines from the Loire Valley are known for their vibrant acidity, minerality, and all-important sense of place.
Don’t Waste Water!
It sounds a bit perverse, given the cool and wet nature of some of the Loire Valley, but the free-draining nature of many soils means that many vineyards require significant amounts of irrigation. This has been a global issue, with excessive water by local wine industries causing potential strain on local resources and negatively impacting the environment. Drip irrigation systems have been used across the Loire Valley for greater water efficiency water.
Managing Pests and Diseases the Natural Way
In the Loire Valley, sustainable vineyards are increasingly adapting to integrated pest management (IPM) strategies. These are natural and preventative methods for controlling pests and diseases, such as introducing bats and predatory insects like ladybugs, to prey on harmful pests. It is also common to use sexual confusion, in which pheromone traps attract the males and disrupt pest mating cycles.
Very important in the Loire Valley is how to manage harmful fungi, such as powdery mildew and downy mildew, when the damp weather arrives. Organic and biodynamic viticulture still allows the use of sulfur and copper, which are thought to be less harmful to the environment than synthetic chemicals. The grape grower can also train the bunches higher, such as in Muscadet, to be further from the ground and avoid fungi and frost. Leaf stripping is an art in the Loire Valley, as growers look to maximise both air flow through the canopies and the sunlight exposure of the grapes ripening on the vine.
It should be noted that this doesn’t include trying to avoid the beneficial fungus, noble rot. This species of Botrytis is welcomed as part of the process of making the famous sweet wines of the Loire Valley, such as the majestic wines of Quarts de Chaume.
Desire to Build and Experiment
The Loire Valley, although a famed region for wine production, is still less well-lauded than its French brothers and sisters of Bordeaux, Bourgogne and Alsace. The huge upside to that is that young, hungry and experimental winemakers can buy vineyards for a relatively low cost and begin their experimental journeys.
Jérôme at Domaine Bretaudeau in the Pays Nantais worked for other winemakers in the region for over a decade before eventually taking over his family’s few hectares of vines. He slowly added parcels from the surrounding areas, now having 15 hectares spread across multiple communes. This means having access to Loire-rarities like Savagnin and Chardonnay, alongside the region legends such as Cabernet Franc and Melon de Bourgogne. Because of his freestyle experimentation with grapes and various ageing periods, vessels and grape varieties, almost all his wines are sold as Vin De France but have built a cult-like following.
Climate Change Adaptation
Climate change poses a significant threat to wine regions around the world, and the Loire Valley is no exception.
Producers are constantly adapting by experimenting with different grape varieties that are better suited to the changing climate. Traditional varieties like Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Franc will likely always remain staples of the region, some producers are planting more heat-resistant varieties or exploring old varieties that were previously not widely used. Cot, the local name for Malbec, is increasingly available to grape growers as the climate is getting warmer.
Grape growers are also looking at their sites much more cautiously. Some are looking to plant at higher altitudes, especially towards the Central Vineyards of Sancerre and Menetou-Salon. Soils with heavy clay content, away from the Loire’s famous tuffeau (a local limestone of the Loire Valley), also stay cooler for longer, helping to extend the growing season of grapes.
Eco-Friendly Winemaking Practices
Many producers attempt to adopt eco-friendly winemaking techniques to reduce energy use, waste, and carbon emissions. Some wineries, for example, have transitioned to solar power (not always straightforward in the greyer parts of the Loire) or using renewable energy to power their production facilities.
A very notable move for winemakers in the Loire is the use of lighter-weight bottles, which reduce transportation-related emissions. The Loire Valley has also become a centre for the use of Bag-In-Box production, and Muscadet AOC has the honour of being one of the first AOCs in France to produce a sustainably focused canned wine!
In the cellar, low-intervention winemaking methods have become an extension of the organic and biodynamic ethos of many in the region. The use of wild yeasts and minimising the use of additives are increasingly common, with stunning Cabernet Francs and Melon de Bourgogne wines in particular.
What Does the Future Hold?
Without being too cynical, it’s also clear that the shift towards sustainability in the Loire Valley is not only driven by environmental concerns. Today’s wine drinkers are increasingly looking for products that align with their values, seeking out organic, biodynamic, and eco-friendly wines. This has encouraged many Loire Valley producers, themselves close to the hubs of Paris, Rouen and Nantes, to adopt green practices and seek certification.
This demand for sustainable wines is sure to grow as more consumers become aware of the impact of global wine production. This trend is therefore likely to continue to shape the future of the Loire Valley wine industry and reinforce the region’s reputation as a leader in environmentally conscious winemaking.
This Blog post is written by Mike Turner
Freelance wine writer, presenter and judge
Mike is a regular contributor for The Buyer magazine and is a certified educator and ambassador for Bordeaux, Rioja, Ribera Del Duero, Barolo and Barbaresco, running trade and consumer events across the UK from his base in the East Midlands.